I am Anthony E. Savvides. This is my blog.

Reflections & adventures of a writer at heart, a journalist by trade and a waiter by night.

Posts Tagged ‘Hagia Sophia

Movin on up!

leave a comment »

My story about the restoration efforts at Hagia Sophia has been picked up by another site!  Click the link below to view.

http://orthodoxyouthministry.blogspot.com/2011/06/uncovered-mosaics-at-famed-hagia-sophia.html

Written by AESavvides

June 15, 2011 at 7:38 pm

Uncovered mosaics at famed Hagia Sophia have art historians anxious to fully restore this national gem

leave a comment »

Story and photos by Anthony Savvides

ISTANBUL, Turkey – It began in 1993 – a massive effort to stabilize and restore an architectural gem dating back to the 6th century. But today, a year after the Ministry of Culture and Tourism declared the project finished, there remains concern that work on the Hagia Sophia Museum is still not complete.

“Now, the restoration process has ended, maybe [due to] money problems. There may be some political agendas, too,” said Aslihan Erkman, a professor of art history at Istanbul Technical University who believes that the efforts should have continued.

A recent discovery in the apse, uncovered during the most recent restoration of Hagia Sophia. The angel was found by restoration workers in the summer of 2009.

Before the latest restoration efforts began, a mission to Turkey by United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization, or UNESCO, noted falling plaster, dirty marble facings, decorative paintings damaged by moisture and ill-maintained lead roofing. Progress was clearly made, but not enough, according to some observers.

In 2008, two years before work stopped on the space, Zeynep Ahunbay, a professor of architecture at Istanbul Technical University, talked of her frustration with the process.

“For months at a time, you don’t see anybody working,” Ahunbay told Smithsonian Magazine in 2008. “One year there is a budget, the next year there is none. We need a permanent restoration staff, conservators for the mosaics, frescoes and masonry, and we need to have them continuously at work.”

That’s one view of the project. Others watching during the nearly two decades of work – and after the scaffolding came down – talked of the somewhat complicated history of the space. Visible for miles across the city, the Hagia Sophia is a symbol of Istanbul’s history as well as its cultural and religious clashes.

The extravagant buttresses, grand dome and four brick minarets, towering toward the sky, have been a prominent feature of the city’s skyline since the 6th century, when it was completed in 537. This historic, grandiose landmark intertwines the legacies of medieval Christianity and Islam, and those of the Byzantine and Ottoman Empires.

A view of a few of the Islamic elements within Hagia Sophia, which were installed on top of and above the altar after the Ottomon conquest of the city in 1453.

Until the fall of the Byzantine Empire to the Ottomans in 1453, Hagia Sophia served as the religious heart and core of the empire. After the Ottoman conquest of the former Byzantine capital, the building was turned into a mosque, which it remained until the early 20th century. In 1931, Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, the country’s first president and founder of the Republic of Turkey, closed Hagia Sophia and secularized it.

>>Click here to continue reading the story.

Written by AESavvides

June 13, 2011 at 5:11 am

After a long night…

leave a comment »

After a long, long night and early morning spent with the gang, my first story from Istanbul has been posted!  I wrote about recent restoration efforts to the Hagia Sophia Museum in Istanbul.  Click the link below to check it out:

Uncovered mosaics at famed Hagia Sophia have art historians anxious to fully restore this national gem

 

Meanwhile, I’m not in the clear just yet.  I’m still hard at work, completing my final story from Istanbul.  Be sure to keep checking back here, you won’t want to miss my last story!

Everyone is all packed up by now, and I am at the hotel buffet with some friend chowing down on our final (unimaginative, boring, lame… insert more “I’m-so-sick-of-this-food” adjectives here) breakfast of this Dialogue of Civilizations program.  We will depart the hotel and head for Ataturk International Airport 30 mintues from riiiight…. Now.

 

Written by AESavvides

June 13, 2011 at 5:01 am

Ιστανπουλ δεν είναι πια Κωνσταντινούπολη – Constantinople Ιstanbul değil

leave a comment »

First off, I have to share this video:

On my first morning at the Grand Yavuz Hotel, I went downstairs to the floor below the lobby, -1 in the elevator, where I ate breakfast with some of my peers.  The selection no longer consisted of hummus, sage, and pita bread.  Instead, there’s a giant glass bowl of Nutella, another filled with honey, corn flakes (among other cereal options), an entire table with baskets of bread, hard-boiled eggs and slices of pink grapefruit.  On another countertop sit four pots, two with coffee, one of tea and one of hot milk.  I ate two hard-boiled eggs and sipped a cup of tea before Denis came around to all of the tables to let us know that we would be assembling upstairs in the lobby for the tour.

We set off with Gokhan, our tour guide, up the hill to the main street.

The group marching up the street toward our first destination, Topkapi Palace.

A restaurant we walked by on the way, displaying a plethora of flags.

Our procession lead us first to Topkapi Palace that was the official and primary residence of the Ottoman Sultansfor approximately 400 years (1465-1856) of their 624-year reign.  It was massive, and reminded me of the Palace of Versailles outside of Paris.  Apparently, if the Sultan decided he was tired, silence fell upon the entire domain.  I wish my house worked like that, but I’m not a Sultan with his own palace.  Wishful thinking…

Gokhan spoke to the group about Topkapi's history before we entered.

A view of Topkapi from the atrium.

The entrance to Topkapi.

After touring through the palace with Gokhan I was able to roam around on my own for 45 minutes.  The building has a massive atrium garden in the center, lined with flowerbeds, trees and broken columns and pottery scattered across the lawn.

    

    

Inside Topkapi Palace.

I took a stroll through an art gallery filled with portraits of all the Ottoman Sultans, and then moved on to a museum filled with Muslim artifacts, including Mohammed’s footprint and a lot of his swords.  Throughout this museum, a man’s voice was echoing through the speakers as he read passages of the Quran.  When I first walked in with my camera in hand, a security guard shook his head at me and waved his hand, motioning for me to leave.  So, I walked out and back in, this time with my camera on and at my side.  I took two illegal videos, which you can view here and here.

The Sultan's bed. Modest.

In stark contrast to all of the other doorways, this tiny one reminded me of Alice in Wonderland.

A view of the Bosphorus through one of the walls surrounding Topkapi.

Elaborate Islamic wall decorations in the palace.

The domes within Topkapi. Beautiful.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I quickly grew tired of Topkapi Palace, though, and spent the last 15 minutes of our allotted time hanging out with Cal and Carlene on the grass.  Slowly, everyone in the group gathered and we left the palace and walked down the cobble pathway to the Blue Mosque.  Since it was a Friday afternoon and prayer time, we didn’t get to go inside, but took a tour around the building.  I’ll have to go back, at some point over the next two weeks, and see it for myself.

 

A bird perched in the main entrance into the Blue Mosque.

Intricate stone work covers the exterior of the building. This is a small example.

A grand entrance leading into the Blue Mosque.

Men washed themselves before entering the Blue Mosque.

People were growing anxious, and we quickly departed and went to a restaurant nearby where we at lunch.  I had some lentil soup, lots of pita bread, and a lamb kebob.  The food was so fresh and bursting with flavor.  I’m excited about eating the local Turkish cuisine over the next 18 days.  Lunch was followed by two pieces of baklava, which was incredible, moist yet perfectly crunchy at the same time.  I know they say the Turks invented baklava and the Greeks perfected it, but now I’m not so sure.  I’ll have to visit the local ζαχαροπλαστείο(or zacharoplasteio, a Greek pastry shop) in Astoria when I get home.

After lunch, everyone assembled for the dreaded head count, and we headed to Hagia Sophia.  This visit did not disappoint.  Hagia Sophia (Ἁγία Σοφία, meaning Holy Wisdom) is everything I ever thought it would be and more- the structural design, the incredibly intricate and massive mosaic icons, the sky-high ceiling and even higher domes- awe-inspiring.  Here are some photos, because words can’t do it justice.

The initial site upon entering Hagia Sophia. Unfortunately, none of the dome mosaics here survived.

The massive main entrance of Hagia Sophia.

  

    

      

  

Jess and I in front of the altar and the mihrab.

Looking at them now, neither can the photographs.  You all need to come visit Hagia Sophia to see it for yourselves.

From Hagia Sophia, the plan was to go back to the Blue Mosque now that prayers had ended and then to the Grand Bazaar, but I asked Carlene for permission to stay behind and spend more time at Hagia Sophia.  After my inquiry, it became clear that many in the group felt the same way.  So, Gokhan lead the bunch back to the hotel and everyone was allowed to split off instead.  I felt bad for ending the tour abruptly, but it wasn’t just me, so I don’t feel that bad.

As people dispersed and left Hagia Sophia, both in the group and individually, I reentered the former Byzantine Greek Patriarchal cathedral of Constantinople, wandering through its many passageways.  It was incredible to be in a place of worship, which, over the years, has been shared by Muslims and Christians alike.  Why must we focus on our differences- God, Allah, Jesus, Mohammed, Bible, Quran- when the core beliefs are the same.  To love one another and be respectful of all life are virtues preached by both faiths.

Looking out from the mezzanine and seeing the Blessed Virgin with Arabic, Islamic features all around, that the world should function more seamlessly the way Hagia Sophia exists.  Maybe one day, we will learn to love one another, despite personal or religious differences.  We are all one living organism here on Earth, one human race, and should not be divided by political boundaries or national borders.

Written by AESavvides

June 8, 2011 at 3:16 am